Blood orange marmalade

Bloody Old Lady Marmalade

Blood orange marmalade
When we were kids, we mainly took family holidays in Italy. In the sun and beautiful countryside of southern Tuscany, we ate wonderful food and relaxed away from day to day life. Our parents often combined the best of both worlds and relaxed as they cooked the evening meal with a long cool gin and tonic. Sometimes the gin was carried from home, but usually it was bought in the hypermarchés we stopped at across the Continent and were lesser known brands such as Bosford or Old Lady’s Gin. Even as a nipper, I was tickled by the name of the latter, especially one summer when the bottle bought came with a can of Orangina Rouge made with blood orange and the exortation that you mix the two to get the hilariously named Bloody Old Lady cocktail…

Despite only sampling the Orangina Rouge sans gin at the time, this drink further fuelled Miss Marple inspired dreams of being a wee old dear before my time. Pairs of slacks, snap clasped handbags and trips to the Post Office with my wheeled shopping trolley all help the illusion, but when I found myself in possession of a big bag of blood oranges and a bottle of Tanqueray Export a few weeks ago, I knew the time had come to be all Women’s Institute and make marmalade fit for a Bloody Old Lady.

Blood oranges, in the skin

Not being a big eater of marmalade, I obviously had very little idea of how to make the stuff. I was adamant that if I was to sample my own wares, it would need to be a thick cut marmalade as I like a bit texture in my preserves. Having made one decision, I failed to do anything else like decide on a recipe or a method of marmalade making and pretty much made it all up from there on in.

Bloody Old Lady Marmalade:

• 6 blood oranges
• 1 large pink grapefruit
• 2 kilos of sugar (I used half regular sugar and jam sugar)
• 2-4 tablespoons good quality gin

I used six blood oranges and one pink grapefruit, stripping the peel off the fruit with a knife. Being a lazy sort, I did not start removing all the pith from the peel and putting it in a muslin bag to go alongside the peel, but left it on the peel. I then juiced the fruit and squashed up the remaining segments to maximise the citrus hit. I had no pips, but if I’d had them I’d have kept them to put inside a muslin bag to help set the marmalade.

I then boiled the be-pithed peel in about 3 pints of water until the peel had started to soften and the water had started to turn the same colour. I then took the peel off the heat and keeping the citrussy water, divided it into two pans as I don’t have one big enough for both. Half the water went in both, along with juiced up fruit and a kilo of sugar in each. I mixed half a bag of each regular and jam sugar with extra pectin and bunged that in. I then boiled the mixture until it reached the magic alchemy point of 220℉ or 104℃ that turns a load of citrussy gloop into marmalade. This is easiest with a thermometer but having smashed mine to ribbons, I used the simple trick of finding the ‘wrinkle point’ on a cold saucer. Once a drop of the hot liquid sets and creases up when you run a finger over it, you have your set point and the marmalade needs to come off the heat immediately.

Allow the pan to sit for about five minutes, easing down from a scary pan of spitting sugar and potential burns, to a gentle pop and sigh of citrus deliciousness (do not forget yourself and put your finger in there). This gives you time to get your jars out of the oven where they have been sterilising, clear space for filling the jars and more importantly for the peel to settle so you don’t end up with it floating on top of your jars once they are filled. Once the marmalade is calm again, add 2 tablespoons of gin (I used Tanqueray Export. It needs to be robust for this) to each pan and stir through before filling the jars. If you add the gin too early, you’ll burn it off and lose the flavour, but don’t be tempted to pour lots in as the alcohol loosens the set of the marmalade and you’ll end up with something more like a lumpy cocktail. Seal the jars with wax circles and cellophane lids and leave to cool completely.

Sliced blood oranges, ready for marmalade

I recommend making a large loaf of bread while this is happening because the instant this marmalade is set and cooled, you are going to want to slather it generously on hot buttered toast with a good strong tea on the side. The blood oranges have a more rounded flavour than their non-red cousins and that slightly soft fruit taste comes through, given a tasty kick with the gin. The first jar I opened was all gone within 24 hours. The second didn’t last much longer. I ate marmalade for breakfast, lunch and dinner, only giving jars to those I love dearly. Giddy with my own preserve superpowers, I entered a jar in the novice category of the Marmalade Awards at Dalemain Mansion, hoping to get further tips on my scorecard. The good folk of Cumbria must have heard my shriek of ecstatic glee when a certificate arrived awarding me bronze! I celebrated by dispensing with the bread and eating more marmalade off the spoon while counting down the days til further blood orange crops. I’ll just make twice as many jars next year!

2012 Marmalade Awards, Fortnum and Mason, London



19 replies
  1. Grania
    Grania says:

    Oh my! All I can say is that this is a recipe after my own heart – marmalade, gin and freshly baked bread.

    Be warned, I might have to steal any remaining jars of this. It sounds heavenly. Did you make soda bread?

  2. Miss South
    Miss South says:

    No! Is this something about preserve making that I didn’t know? I did wish fervently for a jam funnel when I was filling the jars. That peel is hard to get in a jar neatly!

  3. Miss South
    Miss South says:

    Grania, I had a jar set aside for you when you came round and was too busy blethering. But rest assured, there is one with your name on it! I made Dan Lepard’s white tin loaf, but soda bread would be perfect with this, dripping butter and gin syrup down your wrists!

  4. Miss South
    Miss South says:

    Heather, the Tanqueray was on offer, so I was probably feeling more generous than normal. But I think a wee toot of the mothers’ ruin in the marmalade is an ideal antidote to grim February weather. This tells you why I am single and childless I think…

  5. Mister North
    Mister North says:

    If I can just chip in: Miss South gave me a jar to take back north last week, and I’m having to (begrudgingly) ration what’s left. It’s bloody brilliant!

    I’ve not eaten marmalade in years, but this has rekindled my love of the harmonious balance of sweet and bitter for breakfast. The gin gives a sophisticated adult note to what’s otherwise a childhood favourite, and it’s just so good on some doorstep-thick wholemeal toast…

    And for the record, it’s got to be thick cut in my book, every time 🙂

  6. Mister North
    Mister North says:

    Indeed, that’s a blast from the past. Orangina Rouge wasn’t at all shabby… but doesn’t hold a candle to San Pelligrino Aranciata Amara in my opinion. I always buy it from Lina in Soho when I’m down, but was pleased to find it closer to home in Barbakan’s Deli in Chorlton too. Such a wonderful bittersweet taste. I wonder could I persuade Miss South to make marmalade Amara? I’d be in seventh heaven…

  7. Claire
    Claire says:

    Yum! This looks absolutely delicious. I really need to give jam making a go, as I eat it by the bucket load. And I need to buy a sugar thermometer as well.

    p.s. love the new look of the blog by the way!

  8. Miss South
    Miss South says:

    Thanks Claire! We’re rather chuffed with our new look too.

    Jam and marmalade making is so cheap and easy. I’ve managed so far without a thermometer but it should make life easier to have one. I look forward to hearing about some crazy fruit experiments!

  9. John Farrell
    John Farrell says:

    The big thing on this side of the pond is, of course, the latest series of Downton Abbey.
    Everybody who is, or wishes to be, somebody is doing DA like crazy. Our group is doing a DA Charity Tea later this month with seating available at $100 per guest. We are almost sold out.

    I’m honored to have been asked to make 8 pints of marmalade as prizes for the Tea. Finding your Bloody Old Lady Marmalade recipe yesterday was very timely. I only wish I could find a bottle or at least a label of the Bloody Old Lady gin.

    Will keep you posted

  10. Miss South
    Miss South says:

    Hi John, I love that you are doing this tea! It sounds great and Mister North and I were giggling about it because we’ve never even seen Downton Abbey! If you Google Old Lady’s Gin, you’ll get images of the gin. It only became Bloody Old Lady’s when you mixed it with the Orangina Sanguinello. Hope that helps! And keep us posted how it goes…

  11. John Farrell
    John Farrell says:

    The Downton Abbey Tea went off so well we are almost completely sold out for next year’s (and final) event. We had 90 people at the 2/23/2014 Tea. If there was a way to send a photo for this blog I would. I, in my best honorific, was Carson. White tie and tails, studded shirt and white vest with my family watch and chain. Since the event I’ve had an opportunity to throw over my current lady friend for another lady that was at the Tea. Her opening line was, “your stunning performance at the Tea” etc. One gets offers but one, being a gentleman, declines respectfully.

  12. Miss South
    Miss South says:

    Mr Farrell, you’ve been such a gentleman I’d like to offer you the chance to invest in ‘Marmalade Matchmakers’ where preserves make new pairings in love. You’ll be maitre de of course so press those tails and I’ll wear a clean apron. We’ll be millionaires with staff in no time…

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