Suffering fools gladly…

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I was recently chatting with Miss South about the relative dearth of gooseberries for sale; prompted in part by a recent episode of the Food Programme about berries. We both loved gooseberries straight from the garden at our granny’s… the slightly peculiar texture (a little hairy and seedy like pomegranates or tomatoes) and tangy flavour was unlike anything else, and distinctly seasonal. A highly evocative memory of childhood.

An occasional treat, and one which brings back deliciously happy memories, is that of gooseberry fool. Thick cream and fruit, served in glass dishes during halcyon summer weather conditions in the countryside. In my mind’s eye, heavenly. The fact I’ve not had this dessert for so many years has undoubted contributed to a little rose-tinted spectacle wearing on my part, but also led me to crave enjoying this unctuous creamy delight all the more.

So when I saw a couple of punnets in Tesco (I’ve been scouring the markets but haven’t seen any for sale anywhere else) I pounced on them. The particular variety was touted as being sweeter and more suited to desserts than normal, and they had a slight ruddy glow to their green translucency. I was all for following a straightforward recipe for fool, but skimming through the ever-dependable Leon Cookbook I noticed they suggested pairing gooseberries and elderflower, which sounded like a wonderful match. They also suggested mixing greek yoghurt with double cream to create the creamy base, which I thought would add a touch more tang and bite to the flavour. As with all good recipes, it provided a helping hand rather than a restrictive straightjacket… not least as I didn’t have all the ingredients to hand in the correct quantities.

First the fruit got cooked down in a mix of water and sugar (a bit less sugar than Leon had suggested as the variety of berry was supposed to be sweet) and then cooled down. A couple of tablespoons of elderflower cordial got added to the mix (my homemade elderflower liqueur is still brewing away although I’d like to try this again with that once it’s ready). I used roughly a 2-to-1 proportion of double cream to natural yoghurt, then whipped the mix until it got as close to that ever-smirkworthy state of ‘stiff peaks’. The fruit was then folded into the dairy mix, squashed and smashed but still ostensibly whole. This proved to be much better than creating a smooth compote, as it made for a contrasting texture sensation. After dividing into bowls and bunging them in the fridge overnight I was able to enjoy a decadent breakfast course… light, creamy, tart, sweet and so moreable. Yum!

I’ve always liked the British predilection for fools, flummeries, blancmanges, syllabubs and other traditional dairy desserts. These haven’t totally faded from public culinary consciousness, but receive far less attention than they should. I urge you to rediscover the delights of fruit fools as they’re so damn good, and wonderfully easy to make.

How does your garden grow?

The long cold winter seems like just a memory here in London (apologies to our  less lucky Northern readers!) and my little garden has been responding well to the fabulous warm sunny weather we been having since late June with things starting to crop abundantly… Read more

Gardeners’ Delight

After a freakishly chilly May, I have finally got everything planted in my little garden (despite the person who stole a bag of soil from me. What kind of person steals dirt?). I am now impatiently awaiting the appearance of tender green shoots like an eager child…

As I had previously mentioned this is my third year growing my own and with my confidence growing, I am hoping my crop will too! Things took on a life of their own slightly when I managed to get hold of some raised beds fairly cheaply online, expanding my growing space hugely and unexpectedly. Getting hold of soil online proved a bit tricky, but the beds were soon ready to go.

Raised beds

A trip to the amazing garden centre at RHS Wisley led to a rather large credit card bill and some new finds for the garden. I will be experimenting with Munchkin squash in the beds this year as well as hopefully bedding in some perennial Holsteiner Blut and Pink Champagne rhubarb beside the beds. As you may remember both Mister North and I are very fond of rhubarb so I have high hopes for this!

Wisley was also the source of several new herbs for the patio. I got my hands on a stunning tarragon plant, some beautiful marjoram and a fabulous oregano in a self composting pot. Along with the chervil, borage, lovage, sorrel, lemon basil, Thai basil and regular basil I have planted in pots, I think I might just have the best herb garden in Brixton! I’m really looking forward to cooking with some of these new herbs, plan to make litres of pesto and my Pimms will be enhanced beautifully by the borage!

herb-tastic

My little raised beds are home to beetroot, salad leaves, pak choi, gherkins, squash, curly kale, carrots and Swiss chard. I’m using a combination of seeds from Just Seed on Ebay, some swaps with friends and family and my freebies from the brilliant Dig in! at the BBC. I planted last week and seven days later, my pak choi and salad leaves are fantastic! My beetroot was a total washout last year, so I’m particularly excited for that…

I’ve gone for two types of potato this year; the sweet nutty Pink Fir Apple and the stunning looking Shetland Blue. Last year I had limited success with the Pink Fir Apples. I don’t think I planted them deep enough or banked them up well enough. So this year, I dug a trench for them both and buried them deep enough that neither squirrels or sun can damage them. I want to make chips with the whole Fir Apples for utter indulgence and the Blues will make the prettiest mash in all the land.

My tomatoes are less than two weeks in their pots and already showing fruit. I’m starting to think I may be some kind of tomato whisperer. Sadly I couldn’t get the amazing Cheriettes of Fire again this year, but I’ve got two Tumblers instead. These trailing plants are so easy to grow I’d recommend them to anyone with even the smallest amount of outside space, even a strong hanging basket. They just need regular watering and a bit of a feed and they crop like nobody’s business. I’ve also got a lovely Gardener’s Delight again and a heritage variety called Black Cherry because I’m a sucker for purple fruit and veg!

pots & planters

I’m also hoping to get some peas and beans going. I did buy runner bean plants at Homebase, but an unfortunate slug infestation means they have been eaten to shreds before even seeing a flowerbed. I hope to get some more this weekend, plus I plan to get my peas and mangetout underway. I’d like to fully grow the mangetout, but I think I’ll simply sprout the peas to feast on those sweet crunchy pea shoots that make a salad a sensation.

I also have several collapsible planters (supposedly for potatoes) on the patio for courgettes. I’ve planted two varieties this year, a striped Italian number and some yellow ones. I had fairly good success with my zucchini last year, but the globe type I planted seemed to run out of steam quite early and I only had about 8 in total. I’ve heard better things about the sort that resemble mini-marrows instead, so fingers crossed!

I’m hoping for a nice mixture of sun and rain this summer to get my money’s worth from the fruit and veg I’ve got going. Planting most stuff in beds or pots makes them quite easy to care for and hopefully I won’t spend all summer weeding! I’m secretly hoping for a glut of tomatoes again as I’ve really been enjoying sampling that fresh grown flavour throughout the winter months thanks to the home made sauce in the freezer. Home made pesto would be a lovely addition this year to perk up pasta!

I’m just keep my fingers crossed that I don’t have too much die on me this year, but if you’ve got any tips on getting any of the plants mentioned to thrive, please let me know! My nerves may not be able to take the stress otherwise!

Dandelion Fritters

Spring was in the air at May’s Invisible Food Walk and we were on the look out for the newest shoots, buds and flowers the land had to offer. After such a long hard winter everyone was excited to see the trees and flowers returning to life and the promise in of a feast of dandelion fritters, hawthorne flower syrup, stuffed lime leaves and nettle soup only added to that feelingof optimism and newness.

Our ever expanding group began by walking over to Wyck Gardens to pick some particularly succulent looking leaves from the local lime trees. Not to be confused with those that produce citrus fruit, these towering trees are a common sight on London’s streets with large heart shaped leaves of the brightest green. We picked handfuls to take back to the centre and stuff to make a delicious light canape.

We also discovered an excellent patch of comfrey close to the proposed new site for the Ebony Horse Club in the far corner of the park. Both promise to bring new life to the plants of the area. Comfrey makes a wonderful plant feed and horses create excellent fertiliser! Hopefully the recently planted fruit and nut trees in the area will see the benefits first.

We moved onto Loughborough Park in search of dandelion flowers and hawthorn flowers. This small park is tucked away just off Moorlands Road and if you didn’t know it was there, you would never suspect that this shady park filled with winding paths, open spaces and a large playground is there. It is one of Brixton’s lesser known and unspoilt green spaces, making it perfect for foraging. We filled containers with handfuls of sunshine yellow dandelion flowers and delicate white hawthorn blossoms while the kids worked up an appetite on the swings. We also found a new variety of chickweed and picked some beautiful tender young nettles for the pot.

Back at the centre with our spoils still warm from the sun, we set to work turning them into the freshest meal imaginable. The nettle soup was first on the go, peeling and chopping potatoes, onions, leeks, carrots and garlic to form a savoury base. These were sweated down over the wood pellet stove before adding some bouillon and leaving to cook. The nettles would be added just before the end and everything blended to a creamy consistency.

Next to be prepared were the flowers. The delicate white hawthorn blooms needed removed from the stems and placed in a sturdy glass jar where they could infuse and form an aromatic syrup. Unfortunately this wouldn’t be ready for us to try today, but would be a perfect accompaniment to the next batch of dandelion fritters in around two weeks time.

The dandelion flowers also needed separated from their stems. This is easily done using a pair of scissors to snip them off and make sure they are free of any of the milky sap that dandelions produce when torn. The flowers need to be clean and dry to allow the batter to adhere to them evenly. Ceri had already made the batter before we went out foraging as the best batters need time to sit before cooking. She used a simple egg, flour, sparkling water recipe to give a light tempura-style coating to the flowers.

As the fresh lime leaves were being stuffed with rye and hand rolled by an army of volunteers, a friend of the group began to set up a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony to accompany the food we were cooking and wash down the banquet of buffet foods that people had brought. The pale green beans were slowly roasted in a pan over a portable stove and the smell of freshly roasting beans was spectacular. They were then ground and brewed in a tradional boiling pot, before being served with small chunks of Eritrean bread called hembesha. This slightly chewy dense bread flavoured with cardamom and coriander seed is delicious on its own and perfect with coffee!

In the midst of all this activity, it was time for the chopped nettle leaves to be added carefully to the soup. They will sting until cooked so should not be handled unless you like getting hives! The soup was cooked until the leaves wilted and was taken off to be blended. A frying pan went onto the stove and the butter was melted in preparation for frying the fritters as Ceri lightly dipped the flowers in batter. Each dinky little fritter goes into the foaming butter for a minute or two before being drained on kitchen towel.

They are ready to eat as soon as they are cooked. We passed platefuls of these gorgeous golden little morsels around and people who had finished eating the buffet with its Ethiopian lamb curry and injera, doused them in lemon juice and dredged them in icing sugar for a sweet treat to finish their meal. Others who had resisted the home made treats of the lunch table and had held out for soup as a main course dipped them in the gloriously savoury green liquid as the plain batter made them appealing to either a sweet or savoury tooth.

Once we had eaten our fill, fighting over the last few fritters and wiping our bowls spotlessly clean with the remaining chunks of hembesha, we savoured the coffee at the end of the meal. Sadly I was so busy making sure I didn’t miss a drop of soup, I didn’t get any photos of the coffee being brewed or poured. This made me even more determined to try a cup of it and I’m glad I did. Surprisingly light, yet rich and smooth in flavour, it was absolutely delicious. Despite not being much of a coffee drinker, I could have drunk several espresso sized cups of this. Taken black and very hot, it was incredibly refreshing and was the perfect end to to the meal.

This was another fascinating and delicious Saturday afternoon in Brixton filled with new experiences, flavours and textures. I look forward to trying the fritters again with elderflower as we had originally hoped to do, but were thwarted by the chilly May weather that had stopped them from blooming in time. I’m also a lot more keen to weed my flowerbeds now I’ve discovered such a tasty use for dandelion flowers!

Asparagus and Hollandaise sauce…heaven on a plate!

It is of course asparagus season right now here in Britain and I like to do my patriotic duty by eating as much of it as possible. After buying yet more at the farmers’ market yesterday, it came to my attention that about the only way I haven’t sampled this delicacy is the traditional way with hollandaise sauce… Read more